Laksa(An Edited Script Written two years ago)

In Kuching, many people rave about the laksa at Chong Choon coffee shop and Madam Tang's Restaurant. To see whether they would live up to their reputations, I decided to give them both a try.

Situated on Abell Street, Chong Choon is a wooden shophouse at the back of Longhouse Hotel. It has been operating for more than half a century. By contrast, Madam Tang's Restaurant has three branches in Kuching. I dined at the one beside the famous Min Joo noodle shop on Carpenter Street.

Eating laksa is addictive. Over the past few months, my feelings for this noodle dish have swung from mild love to fervent infatuation.

A bowl of laksa contains blanched rice vermicelli aswim in a reddish coconut milk-based broth. Arranged atop the noodles are blanched bean sprouts, shrimps, omelet strips, and a few sprigs of cilantro. Sarawak laksa is normally eaten with sambal belacan. A squeeze of a lime also adds tartness to the noodles. The dish is quite similar to the curry noodles in West Malaysia, but curry powder is not among its ingredients.

Having heard that Chong Choon Cafe was always spilling over with people, I went there quite early, at 7:30 a.m. However, the coffee shop was already jam-packed with customers. I shared a table with a young, affable Malay couple and their two kids. While waiting for my laksa to come, I ordered two pieces of taro cake to stave off my hunger. They were savory and tasty. I had never eaten taro cakes as soft-textured and fluffy as those pieces. I had an urge to order more but thought better of it. I had to leave enough room in my stomach for the laksa.

My order came after 30 minutes. Its spicy aroma wafted into my nose and intensified my hunger. Unlike the laksa dishes in Miri, Chong Choon's laksa had a dark brownish hue. I scooped up a spoonful of broth and sipped it eagerly. Rolling the liquid around my tongue, I could identify the flavors of daun kesum (Polygonum leaves), lemongrass, galangal, coriander powder, and chicken bones. The broth was piquant with a generous dose of chilies. Moreover, it was not oily and had only a hint of coconut milk. The laksa had a sweet edge too. Had yam beans and anchovies been used to cook the stock? The noodles were moderately soft, and the tang of spices infused each strand. The freshness and crunchiness of the shrimps and bean sprouts complemented the noodles perfectly. Every bite and sip culminated in an explosion of flavor! This delicious dish cost me a mere RM 4.00.

After eating, I did a little shopping. Then I returned to my hotel and slept. I woke up at around 10:50 a.m. Feeling hungry again, I decided to go for an early lunch. I had actually planned to have chicken rice, but as I walked past Madam Tang's Restaurant, I was itching to try laksa again.

The laksa at Madam Tang's Restaurant had a rich yellowish hue. The soup tasted more like curry, and it had a tinge of nutty flavor. It was creamier due to the thickness of the coconut milk within. However, it was too salty for my palate. At the more expensive price of RM 5.50, it offered me only two shrimps in contrast to the four that I had had in my Chong Choon Cafe laksa. I found it quite disappointing. But those who enjoy typical, hot, spicy food would have chosen this version.

The best laksa I have tasted is the one at Katong Laksa, Singapore. It is spicy, creamy, and flavorful. It is a different type of noodle dish, not to be put in the same category as Sarawak laksa. Nevertheless, Chong Choon Cafe earned some brownie points with me for its good laksa. I will definitely visit the coffee shop again the next time I come to Kuching.